Immunisation Advice

Canine Distemper, Canine Parvo-Virus and Canine Hepatitis can all be fatal to dogs, and are preventable only by vaccination. Distemper and Infectious Hepatitis have been around for many years. Parvo-virus first appeared in 1978, and within 12 months had spread worldwide. Treatment for a dog infected by any of these diseases is difficult, expensive, and not always successful, which is why immunisation is so vital.

The earliest sign of Distemper is a fever lasting 2-3 days, which recurs about a week later. Dogs of any age may be infected, but young dogs are the most susceptible. Clinical signs vary from dog to dog, but include fever, respiratory problems such as coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge, pneumonia, eye discharge, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, listlessness and dehydration. 

Nervous signs such as muscle tremors, convulsions, loss of balance and progressive paralysis usually occur later in the course of the disease. The recovery rate from Distemper, even with careful treatment, is fairly low. Dogs which have apparently recovered may later develop permanent nervous problems.

Preventing distemper is simple. Distemper vaccination should be done when the dog is a pup (note that a dog can be incubating the disease 2-3 weeks before developing clinical signs of Distemper, and dogs that are already incubating the disease cannot be protected through vaccination). Pups should be given a temporary vaccination at about 6 weeks of age. This should be repeated at 2-4 week intervals from 6 - 12 weeks of age.

Pups should be fully vaccinated by your vet at 12 - 16 weeks of age. They will be protected within approximately 14 days of full vaccination, which is why it is recommended that puppies are not exercised outside the home yard for a fortnight after vaccination.

Hepatitis and Parvo-Virus are also preventable through immunisation. Vaccines for these can be administered by your vet in conjunction with your dog's distemper shots. The recommended vaccinations are as follows:

• At 6-8 weeks of age pups need Parvo-virus, Distemper and Hepatitis;
• At 12-14 weeks of age, Parvo-virus, Distemper, Hepatitis and Para influenza - which is also known as "Kennel Cough";
• At 16-18 weeks of age, Parvo-virus, Distemper, Hepatitis and Para influenza;
• Then every 12 months after that.

Stress plays a big part in your dog's ability to withstand infection from disease. It is therefore advisable that if it is necessary to board your dog, and it's vaccinations or boosters are close to due, then they should be brought up to date before kenneling. 

All boarding kennels require a completed immunisation certificate before they will board your dog. For more information on immunization, please consult your local vet.

| top |

Advice on Skin and Coat Care

Along with worming and flea control, maintenance of a healthy skin and coat ensures that your dog is a happy and welcome member of your household.

Regular brushing, even with short haired dogs, is important to remove debris and hair and skin particles which have been shed, but remain in the coat. Remember, too, that it can be natural for a dog, especially a short haired breed, to shed its coat almost year round if it spends a lot of time indoors.

The extra light and warmth causes the dog's body mechanisms to think that every day is a long warm summer day and that it should be molting or shedding coat hair. When brushing your dog, select a brush that's suitable for its type of coat. Your vet or pet shop can advise you on this. 

Brush the coat up first, against the natural direction of the coat hair. This will ensure that you brush out any debris and that you are brushing the coat right down to the base, rather than just smoothing down the top layers. This is particularly important with breeds that have a double coat, that is a dense undercoat under a longer coarser top coat, so that you avoid matting and tangles. Brushes are best for this. Combs are usually best on shorter, more open coats. 

A grooming aid can be used to help remove tangles and to add body and control to longer coats. Simply spray grooming aid on while the coat is brushed up, and then brush through the coat, after allowing a minute for it to dry. You will then have a smooth, static free and manageable coat.

Bath time is a matter of personal preference, both yours and your dog's. In other words, you should bath your dog as often as you feel it needs it, or, if its preference is for messy activities, as often as you feel you need him bathed. In either case, the main aim is to have a clean dog and so you should select a shampoo for that purpose and not any other.

If your dog doesn't have a skin problem, then don't use a medicated shampoo. You may cause more problems than you are trying to cure. If your dog has sensitive skin, avoid shampoos which contain soap, which is most of them, and also those which contain perfumes, both of which can be an irritant.

If your dog has an existing skin problem, be sure to treat it on your vet's advice and use a shampoo which won't interfere with the treatment. Lastly, your dog has a different skin to you, and shampoos designed for humans can be too harsh for your pet. Use a shampoo specially formulated for your pet. 

Skin problems come in many forms, and can be caused by a variety of things, and only your vet can properly diagnose and treat your dog. Many different skin conditions can look the same, but the treatments required may be vastly different, and sometimes the wrong treatment can make the problem worse. 

Your vet will be able to determine whether your dog has, for instance, an allergic reaction, a diet problem, a reaction to a flea bite or some other skin parasite, or one of a myriad of other problems.

| top |

Fleas and Ticks

A word about fleas and ticks. If you live in an area known for ticks, it is recommended that you search your dog daily in the tick season. The paralysis tick can be deadly for your dog, and symptoms can take up to 4 days to show. Daily removal of any ticks, and if you find one, careful monitoring of your dog for signs of lethargy or paralysis in the back legs, should ensure that you prevent the problem, or at the very least, see the signs in plenty of time to seek veterinary attention. 

Treatment for tick paralysis is very successful if the problem is caught early enough, so, at the first sign of symptoms, or if you have found a tick and have any doubts, just see your vet. It may save you dog's life. Here's a hint for tick removal - A piece of cotton thread looped over the tick and pulled tight close to the skin, will in most cases remove the head and body, leaving only the pinchers in the skin. This can then be removed with tweezers, or scraped out.

Again, if you're in doubt, please check with your vet.

Fleas can be a major problem for your dog, and for you. Your vet can advise in detail on the comprehensive program of treatment to get rid of them. Briefly, however, it is important to treat the dog and his environment.

Remember that fleas don't live on the dog, they breed in the yard or under the house, especially in dry dusty areas. When developed, they jump on the dog, bite, and jump off, so most of them will be found in the house, the kennel or your dog's favourite resting places. These areas can all be successfully treated with house bombs, and carpet sprays, and yard and kennel sprays.

For your dog, various sprays and rinses are available, as well as collars and other flea treatments. Here's a handy hint - most insecticidal rinses need your dog's natural skin and coat oils to disperse and work properly. If you wash your dog before using an insecticidal rinse, be sure to use a non soap, non detergent shampoo, like Deltadoom Soap Free Shampoo, which will not strip out these natural oils, and will ensure that the insecticide remains on the dog and works properly.

| top |

Overweight Dogs

Weight problems are quite common in dogs, and many people find it hard to keep their dogs fit and slim. Modern feeding methods can sometimes contribute to the extra weight our dogs carry, along with several misconceptions people have about when and how much they should feed their dogs.

The first thing to consider is just how much food does a dog need? To fully understand our dog's needs we should examine how the wild dog survives and what it's diet consists of.

A wild dog lives on rodents, rabbits and berries, and by scavenging. On average it would only eat once a day, and there would sometimes be 2-3 days between meals. Our domestics dogs system is actually geared to this pattern of eating. If we feed our dogs every day, they will tend to store fat for the lean times. If no lean times arrive they tend to get fatter and fatter. Feeding 2 or 3 times a day - the same amount as we eat - will result in extreme overweight.

A dog only requires one average size meal per day, and ideally should have one day per week with complete abstinence from food to help burn up excess fat. A dog should not be given lollies or sweets as these things will only make the dog more prone to overweight.

Milk is not necessary in an adult dog. Cows milk is far too rich and can cause gastric problems. However, if you are determined to give your dog milk there are special brands of dog milk available from supermarkets. Be especially careful how much milk you give an overweight dog.

Many people believe that desexing causes overweight in dogs. This is not entirely true as it is only the dog's interest in food that increases after desexing. Owners of desexed dogs should not increase their dog's food intake. A ravenous dog can be given raw bones, which will pacify even the hungriest dog, without the bulk which ads fat.

There are also several brands of diet dog food available which can help with weight reduction. Keep in mind that dogs that are not overweight tend to live longer, and enjoy much more active lives.

| top |

The Aged Dog

As our dogs age, things like their diet, their lifestyle and quality of life need special consideration. An aged dog's diet should be altered somewhat. Older dogs are less able to digest bones, and require less protein than younger dogs. Nutrients become harder for your dog to absorb from it's food, so some vitamins and possibly an iron supplement may be required. There are some excellent products available especially designed for mature dogs - ask your vet or check your supermarket. Older dogs that lose interest in food may even require an appetite stimulant, which can be obtained from your vet.

Consideration must also be given to the ageing dog's hearing and eyesight, which often become impaired as they get older. However, note that as dogs age they can become more cunning, leading us to believe that their hearing has become impaired when in fact, the dog has learned to avoid doing what we ask it. When you are certain that your dog is going deaf or blind, certain compensations need to be made for it. For dogs with impaired hearing, we might have to walk over to the dog, rather than call it, and possibly use hand signals the dog will recognise. Older dogs may not always hear a visitor or stranger approaching the house.

Dogs over the age of seven often develop cataracts in their eyes. As the dog gets older these can impair vision. For the dog that suffers impaired vision adjustments may have to be made to placement of house or garden furniture to allow the dog freedom of movement until it learns it's way around. Be sure to always place furniture back where it was after use. This can work if the dog's quality of life is still good as it's other senses will gradually take over.

Thought should also be given to the day when your dog can no longer make the stairs. As they age some dogs lose the use of their back legs. If you feel your dog is unhappy, or not enjoying the quality of life it deserves, then some thought may have to be given to euthanasia. This is no easy decision to make, but if and when you do, be sure to go to the vet or R.S.P.C.A. and they will explain that the dog will be given a lethal injection, will not feel any pain and will die peacefully.  

For more specific problems with ageing dogs it is a good idea to consult your local vet.

PLEASE NOTE

The basic medical information presented here in no way replaces qualified hands-on advice. You should ALWAYS seek professional medical help for your dog if you are in the least bit concerned for it's health.

Back to Training Tips...